New Year's Eve 2011 - a few close friends, crazy drinks, hats, balloons, home made fabulous aps - The studio was alive with music, laughter and fun. We rang in 2012 strobes firing and shutter tripping. Got some great stock photography of food, drink and merriment. Went to bed in the wee hours of the new year exhausted and happy. A great way to work, a great way to start the year!

Monday started that way anyway - a slow and lazy morning with coffee looking out at the breathtaking view to which we’d become so accustomed. Mike and Julia went out for a good bike ride, Dick and I took turns running the ancient loop. We feasted once more on yummy leftovers for lunch and headed out to Chawton to visit the house where Jane Austen did the bulk of her writing. A lovely little museum with a few really touching artifacts; a bonnet, her quill pen, and a moving letter written by her sister to her aunt, recounting Jane’s last day of life and her passing.

Before heading home we stopped at a playground and Mike took us with him to the garden center and pet store. Note: Pet bunnies are cute in every country. Hamsters, I think, are not cute in any country. I started to feel a little woozy in the pet store. I attributed it to rich lunch and the swings at the playground followed by Mike’s curve hugging speedy maneuvers in the car. We got home and it didn’t get better.

I spent the afternoon and night paying for my swim in the Thames. I was violently ill and so sad to spend my last hours in England that way. By morning I was empty of everything, and though pretty drained, dragged myself to the airport and on the plane for home. Poor Dick did much of the packing and all of the parenting himself, while I just retreated inward and got through the journey. I’m still not 100% but perking up by the hour. I’ve since found out that at least 3 other people who swam the race also got sick with the same symptoms and timing as me, and I can only imagine there might be a few more. Damn swans. I knew they were trouble. And I just know that this bit of awfulness can somehow be traced to Henry VIII. Dude was bad news.

Sometimes things going awry makes a departure a little easier in a strange sort of way. It was so hard to say goodbye to Mike & Julia and their little eden of Spring Cottage and its surrounds. I know I would have cried had I had the strength, but yesterday morning all I could focus on was getting home, and so it made ripping the bandaid off a little easier.

England’s unfathomable history is only exceeded by the kindness of her people. We were welcomed at every turn, with broad smiles and light hearts. Mike excitedly drove us from place to place, happy to explore castles even he’d not seen yet. He has a playful spirit about him that makes him so much fun to be with. Julia is a beautiful and witty soul. If we made an offhand remark about liking any kind of food, the next day, it appeared in her kitchen. She mothered us and sistered us and stayed up late chatting with me and sharing her music and laughter. She is so kind and warm and loves to see people happy in her home. They are planning to come see us in 2013, and knowing this, Finn said to Mike on our departure (after a particularly fierce wrestling match) “You’re going down when I’m 7!” If we play our cards right, we might be able to make it back to England in 2015. We’re so lucky to have it there to return to. 

For now, there are pictures to edit, loads of laundry to do (she tried, but I just couldn’t let Julia do it all before we left), stories to share with friends here at home. Finn’s already been off to Superhero Camp this morning. In our quiet hour together, Dick and I both remarked how great it is that we love to travel, but we also really love our home. Bath, Maine is a great place to come back to after an adventure, and this homecoming never gets old.

What a cool day in Windsor!

Left at 6 am for a 715 arrival at the river Thames, where I queued up to register for the Windsor Open Water Swim. Everyone there was so nice - the registration people, the competitors, the swan. Zillions of swans.

I passed the camera to Dick and suited up. Squeezed into my wetsuit (fit much better two weeks ago - thanks, Julia) and we all strolled down a lovely stone lane to the start, passing huge, elegant willows and swan after swan after swan. The towers of Windsor Castle were before us in the distance.

Dipped my toe into the historically epic river and was sooooo delighted - warm! Probably 65 degrees, which was about 6 degrees warmer than I had expected. Many swimmers ditched their wetsuits. I jumped in for a little warm up, and we were off. The 3000 meter wave had a double lap course, which had us traveling up stream twice and downstream twice. Happily, we’ve had no rain this week, so the flow was minimal. I ambitiously started at the front of the pack and swam hard. I finished the course in about 45 minutes - faster than I had expected! Official results will be posted tonight, but I think I finished in the top quarter or third of the field. I got into a head to head race with a guy from the last buoy to the finish. We took turns sighting and both sprinted to end. I think I beat him by a nose...we’ll see! We got out and congratulated each other with a big hug. What a great race - everyone had a good time. Thanks to my cheering squad of Finn, Dick, Julia and Mike, and thanks to Mike and Dick for getting some great pictures!

We had some fun watching the Royal Guard, picked up a few trinkets for Finn and his friends in the gift shop. Sadly, the Queen was not in residence today. I was a bit put out - we have come a long way, after all.

A quiet ride home as we were all pretty tired. We chilled, Mike destroyed something in the yard with a chainsaw and his new axe, and then we all polished up for an outing - a wedding reception, in which we put an appearance, then left and went to Petersfield for a nice dinner. Before we left the house, we did a picture of the 5 of us all gussied up.

  

It’s been a great, long day. 

Ok, Mom, this one’s for you! It’s all about the garden!

Another easy day here on Stroud Lane. Coffee and yogurt with mango on the patio. It warmed up nice and early this morning. Glorious.

Mike headed out of town for a dive with his club. I was tempted to join, but really could think of a few reasons not to; in particular, I have a race in the morning. Best to have a restful day, and that’s pretty much what I did.

Julia took us in to Petersfield this morning and I took Dick back to that old bookshop with me. We picked up a few items to bring back with us. A doughnut from the bakery for Finn, and back to Spring Cottage. Dick had a trail run, Finn and I played table tennis and chilled in the summer house. We had a repeat of yesterday’s fantastic lunch, I ate too much again....I know, this day sounds just like yesterday, and it mostly was. Delightful.

In the town square we met a Jack Russle Terrier named Holly Honey Coco. The bookshop we could have stayed in for hours. Finn licking Julia’s batter bowl.

After lunch I attempted a run. Note to self: do not run right after lunch. I had to walk more than I would have liked, and chalked it up to digestion and resting for tomorrow.

With our empty afternoon, I took the opportunity to do some photographic and video work in M & J’s lush and vivd gardens. I love it when people care enough about their surroundings to cultivate a space like this. Soulful design, diversity of textures and colors, rooms created by walls of green spattered with vibrant blooms, grassy paths leading to stone walks filled with pots of plants. This garden is a place where your pulse rate slows and the noise in your head goes to quiet. Beyond that, I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Yes, this is a special place. I’m not really sure photographs can do it justice. You really have to walk through these paths, surrounded by stalks and blooms that reach high overhead, to appreciate what Mike and Julia have done here. I shot some video too, and had Finn narrate a walk to the little Mike-made pond and  neighboring horse field. This is good stuff but requires some editing I’ll do for some sort of final project to come.

Lovely friends came for dinner - Ian and Leslie from up the lane. They were fun and funny and we laughed over stories while savoring Julia’s fantastic meal...really hoping I fit into my wetsuit tomorrow....

Right, about that swim. If you should find yourself awake at 315am EST (815 here in the UK), please think strong swimming thoughts for me, as I will be plunging into the Thames very near to Windsor Castle! I’m competing in the Human Race Events Windsor Swim. Click here for more info if you’re so inclined. I’ll be swimming 3000 meters and know that about half of it will be upstream. The water will be a balmy 64 degrees, which is much warmer than I had expected it to be. I’ve only been swimming twice in the last two weeks, so I can use any bit of upper body strength you can manage to send my way!

That’s all for now, as once again the alarm is set for 5am. I’ll report in about the race, our tour of Windsor Castle we’ll do afterwards, and the wedding party we’ll be attending tomorrow night! It will be another full and rich day here in England. It’s hard to believe we have only a few left.

- HPW

Home day.

After the wonderful hustle of our two days on the road, we decided to stick close to home today, and it was just what we all needed. Slept in, coffee in bed (as i finished last night’s blog). Dick had a run, I had a run. I love running here. If I had a route like this to run at home, I think I’d never stop running.

At the end of my run, I met Dick and Finn three fields and 4 styles over, to a clearing in a wood, where someone, some time ago, went to a great effort to hang three fantastic tree swings from a branch in a beach tree that must be 40 feet off the ground. The seats of the swings are made of branch sections. The tree is so big and the branch so high, you can swing and swing and never bump into the trunk or anything else. This little eden is hidden in this little wood - our own version of the Hundred Acre Wood - where no one can find us. I’m not even sure how Dick & Finn found it.

There are three swings there. We three were swinging together. It was so great. We walked back through the fields, past the old oak tree, playing cow-patty-slalom, running through the buttercups.

Came home and drew pictures of castles and swings for the scrap book and sat down to a dream lunch put out by the inestimable Julia. After lunch, Mike took the three of us into Petersfield where Finn and Dick hit the play ground and Mike and I hit the flea market and then The World’s Greatest Book Store. Old books. Old maps. Old drawings. Not USA old, England old. So cool. I could have stayed there all day (as a matter of fact, I’m going back tomorrow). As we walked back to the playground to meet Dick and Finn, Mike pointed out all of the old (see above) houses and buildings to me. Old. Like, 16th century. Cool and old.

Home to an impromptu round robin of table tennis, and a guitar lesson with Julia for Master Finn. Lots of lounging in the grass...music, breezy and easy. Julia filled us with fantastic dinner, and we sat around and laughed and chatted till bed time. 

It was that kind of day.

Finn has settled in and feels at home here. I was so moved by his expression when he was playing guitar with Julia - so totally present and calm. After his lesson he did a little more swinging under the apple tree right in the front yard. So simple, so perfect.

 

  

Probably more of the same tomorrow. I’ll run in the morning then rest up for my big swim race in the Thames on Sunday morning. More about that tomorrow. For now, I’ll be dreaming of a swing in the woods, a guitar on the lawn and wine in my glass.

- HPW

To Kent we went!

Packed an overnight bag, jumped in the car at 6 am Wednesday and headed east. Our first stop was the notorious Canterbury Cathedral. Glorious. Humbling. The history here dates back nearly 1500 years, with the building of what stands there today beginning in the 11th century. The most famous bit of history there of course was the murder of Archbishop Thomas Becket in 1170 - precisely 800 years before Dick was born. The Cathedral is filled with amazing architecture and the resting bodies of Kings and other important people from Britain’s past.

Scenes from Canterbury Cathedral

The crypt is a magnificent place, and we nearly got thrown out of it for taking pictures there (which is not allowed). This was largely Mike’s fault. Aside: While we were making a tour of England’s historic sites in the South East, Mike was apparently on a mission to break rules and get ejected from the same. He got some great pictures in the process though. I’ll give him that. I’ll share some of his illicit photographic work below.

I’d like to take a moment here to comment on how brilliantly lit all of these venues are. It feels like they have employed a lighting designer in each place - there is always such a magnificent balance between ambient light and enhancing artificial lights. The created light is colorful but not gaudy or distracting - it’s designed to perfectly bring out the finest points of architecture, while never overpowering the lovely patterns of natural light streaming in through a stained glass or other kind of window. The light I’ve encountered in Britain’s historic indoor spaces has made photography an absolute creative pleasure. Well done, England.

After we finished in the Cathedral (I could have stayed in there all day) we wandered around the town of Canterbury for a short time, sat for a coffee and cake and visited the sweet shop. One of my favorite memories of traveling to Europe with my parents when I was a kid was ducking in to cafes and bakeries for some local sweet delicacy. I found it immensely satisfying to do so with Finn. I believe he found it more than satisfying. We made our way back to the car and set out for Leeds Castle.

Leeds Castle

The surrounds of Leeds is equally special and has plenty to do. A few peacocks really put on a show on our arrival, and Finn barely survived the tour of the castle itself for waiting to get to the hedgerow maze. I’d like to point out that of the 5 of us, not only was i the last one to the center, but i’m skeptical I would have made it at all if Mike hadn’t climbed up on a giant rock he was not supposed to climb (see above) and directed me through from above. Really, I might still be there. The exit from the maze (once you get to the center) is beneath it all through a fun grotto that has been Disneyfied a bit, but is entertaining and really well done. And fortunately for me, is a one-way and nearly a straight line.

The maze at Leeds, where I very nearly became a permanent resident.

After hours on our feet, we called it a day and headed to a hotel before a nice dinner at Julia’s brother’s home. It’s so special to travel to a foreign country and eat real meals in the homes of real people! And Julia’s brother, Pete, is a police officer, yes, a Bobby, in London! I had dinner with a real Bobby! How cool is that?

We got back to the hotel late. Slept in. Breakfasted, hopped back in the car and drove to Bodiam Castle. This castle is practically contemporary - built in 1380 for crying out loud. Sitting in a man made (hand dug) mote, it’s a smallish castle, in a perfect square with rooms in the turrets on each corner. A lovely open courtyard in the middle. Very reasonably sized. Not too big. This is a castle I feel I could manage. Especially with a large staff of serfs. Finn ran and climbed and loved the endless spiral staircases. 

Bodiam Castle from the ground and from atop one tower

Dick had the Steak & Ale pie. See plate at right for review.

Ok John Paige - I hope these live up to your memories and expectations!

Onto our last castle of this expedition: Arundel. Interesting to note how many (so many) of our towns in New England have names borrowed or stolen from England. For example, we have an Arundel, Maine. But we say it in a clunky way a-RUN-del.

The Brits, being much cooler then us, and sounding even better say it Arun-DELL. It sounds like something from the ring trilogy. And once you get the habit for saying it properly down, you just want to say it all day. Arun-DELL. 

At Arundel, we only saw the Keep, the Chapel and the notorious gardens. All delivered. From the Keep, spectacular views. The Chapel was a tiny and quiet delight, with interesting architectural points, and stunning grave sites. Of all of the ancient crypts and mausoleums I have visited, this tiny one may have been the most beautiful. What a delightful surprise.

Views from Arundel’s Medieval Keep

Just a small portion of Arundel’s gardens - the wildflowers.

We finished up and headed for home, wiped. I know there was a point when everyone in the car except for Mike was asleep. Thankfully, he was driving.

We got home, snacked for dinner, looked at pictures - I shot close to 800 and Mike had a few hundred to add - and have called it a night. What a jam packed and great expedition. And Mike never officially got ejected from any sites, although he was certainly skating on thin ice a few times...He did get some fantastic photos though, and some very good ones of Dick, Finn and me, for which I am very grateful, as I rarely get photos of me! Here are just a handful of his expert work.

Mike’s photo stream

The beautiful crypt - the shot that nearly got us kicked out. Dick, Finn and I in Canterbury Cathedral. 

The birds of Leeds - the showy peacock and the swans (all swans in the realm owned by HRM the Queen).

 Tree hugging at Leeds. Finn barely surviving our walk through the castle before getting to the much anticipated maze.

Finn and I in the grotto beneath the maze. An artfully framed tree at Bodiam Castle.

No plans for tomorrow other than a huge (I hope) run for me and perhaps a special photo shoot in the evening....stay tuned. For now, my first priority is joining the rest of the household in a Castle-dream filled sleep.

- HPW

This will be a quickie, as it’s midnight now, and the alarm is set for 530 am. 

We had an easy day, with no real plans. Mike & Julia headed out for a 22 mile bike ride before we even got out of bed. I got up and went for a fantastic run on ancient trails, Dick and Finn snuggled and hung out. 

We went into Petersfield for lunch - a great meal in a funky little attic restaurant. We sat and ate cozy in this nest while the thunder boomed and the skies opened up. Ducked into a few shops between the rain drops and headed for home.

In the evening, I went to Julia’s dancy exercise class again (thank you, ladies!), and then Dick and I went for a swim and pub with Mike. Everyone’s abed now.

It was just what we all needed - no big sites to see or ground to cover. A day like this is a luxury that can only be afforded when you stay somewhere for a while. I liberated myself from the big camera today (another indulgence I could take being here for two weeks!), and played with Instagram and Hipstamatic on my iPhone instead. Below a small gallery of these from our home town day.

Tomorrow we beat the rush hour traffic as we set out for an overnight in Kent. We’ll do Canterbury Cathedral and three castles - Leeds, Bodium and Arundel. Dinner will be at Julia’s brother’s house, and we’ll overnight at an inn nearby. So no blog tomorrow night, but there will surely be a biggie when we get home.

To Kent! But first, to bed!

-HPW

Castles. Castles. At last.

Three Weafers had a good night’s sleep (well, this one stayed up too late blogging and by the looks of it will again). Awoke refreshed. Breakfasted and loaded into the car for the first in our Castle Series: Corfe Castle in Wareham, a little over an hours drive. 

Up until the 14th century, the castle was used by Kings as a prison and a comfortable residence (nevermind the screams of the prisoners awaiting death). Elizabeth I sold it to someone in her cabinet and it became a private family home for a succession of nobles, until in what can only be described as an act of terror, the castle was blown up in the English Civil War in 1646. It became the ruin that remains today.

When you see this fortress, walls yards thick, high on a severe hill, it’s really hard to imagine it could actually be blown up with the technology available in the 17th century. Alas, Man’s ability to build is rivaled only by his ability to destroy, and so this magnificent and robust structure all but crumbled. Stones from the ruins were used over the centuries to build more houses in the town below.

Touring the ruins is enhanced with lovely touches - the best being a tent where kids can don knight or princess costumes and roam about the crumbling walls swinging swords and fighting dragons. The garments are hand made and borrowing them for the visit is complimentary. Finn climbed the walls of this great old place with a mighty wooden sword in his hand. Brilliant. The town below is charming and so neatly laid out. Old spaces converted to shops and pubs and of course a place to buy Finn some sweets, which we did after we lunched on sandwiches from a local bakery. I love England.

From Corfe we headed back this way for our next Castle stop. But first, a brief duck into the New Forest (home to free roaming horses and deer) to check out the site of the Rufus Stone - the monument marking the spot where King William II was killed in a hunting “accident” (wink wink nudge nudge). The redheaded monarch was also known as William Rufus, and apparently wasn’t that well liked, nor mourned, so no one did much to apprehend the guy who shot him with an arrow. 

How was this visit, you ask? Ever been to Plymouth Rock? It was a little like that. We did see a herd of deer though, and that was pretty cool. 

Back to the car to wend our way to castle #2: Portchester Castle. Sneakily stunning, this place. While Corfe has the advantage of impressing you as you approach, with its perch atop a formidable hill, Portchester doesn’t look like much sitting there on the shore line. And then you walk in side the castle walls. I sat, alone (Mike, Finn and Dick had already disappeared into some nook or cranny), in a green green courtyard, surrounded on all sides by chambered stone walls six feet thick and nearly 1000 years old. I let the stillness envelop me and tried to conjure up the sights and sounds of Kings and knights swirling around me, ducking in and out of rooms, marching up majestic stone steps. This place has history almost 2000 years old, as it was the site of one of the earliest Roman fortifications in the region. As a castle, it was used as a defense of Portsmouth Harbour, but later became a palace which hosted the likes of King Edward III, Richard II and Henry V who made Portchester Castle his departure point as he set sail for Agincourt - clearly, the place had good mojo.

Back down and cruised the surrounds...an ancient church and cemetery, the narrow strip of shore line along the outer fortress walls where Finn and I collected sea glass - we had a handful in less than two minutes. We came home and shared our stories with Julia the Unwell (cheers, Ethelred!), who had stayed behind with a cold, but still managed to do more laundry and prepare an excellent meal and pudding (dessert) for us.

Finn had a phenomenal day, and I would say this is the first day he really seems to be settling in. He was comfortable today, chatting in the car, fighting dragons, eating a lollipop on cobblestone streets and helping Julia in the kitchen. He even took my camera around the garden after dinner and captured our surrounds from his point of view. I’m sharing space here with him tonight.

Finn smashing a dragon or a viking at Portchester Castle. Our castle sea glass collection.

 Finn and Julia making the fabulous meringue dessert, bringing it out to the patio.

I’m writing much more than I intended to tonight, but I just can’t seem to process what we’ve seen enough to really wrap my head around the depth and grandeur of the known and preserved history here. When I’m standing in a castle, it’s almost too much to imagine. I wish I could travel back in time. But to when? 1066 with William the Conqueror? 1415 with Henry V? 1540 with Henry VIII (risky, verrrrry risky)? These places have been in service to the people of England for a millennium. I could pop into 1600 with Elizabeth I and still be wondering what these walls contained 400 years before that. It’s just so....rich. I look around at the stone walls before me, I watch the students filing through in their uniforms, I look at our gracious hosts Mike & Julia, and I’m a little bit in awe and just a teensy bit envious. What is it like to have these walls, these characters, these stories and ghosts in your DNA?

We’ll stick to Petersfield tomorrow. A run, some flea marketing, time in the garden. An exercise class and a swim, followed by pub in the evening. Resting up for our next big adventure on Wednesday.

It’s been a really full 24 hours. So I’ll get back to yesterday and:

Part II - Gathering.

Picture it. A huge and verdant field surrounded by hedgerows. Two charming and funny Brits arrive, and along with Finn, they set about the business of digging a hole. The banter is quick and sharp and funny. I cannot stop laughing. Over the course of the next few hours, tables are set up, chairs are brought down from the house, people begin to gather as two succulent pig legs are roasted over the fire pit. The tables fill with food. A Barn Owl patrols the lower field again and again putting on a magnificent show. The weather is perfect, the company warm and happy to be there, the mood is free and easy. That’s how the party went, into the wee hours, when only a few remained, lit by firelight, sharing stories, one funnier than the next. It was a fantastic time.

The gathering in the field. Julia enjoying a wonderful group of people.

Spring Cottage in the dusk. Talking by the fire.

We wobbled down to the patio to be treated to a grilled breakfast of bacon, sausage and duck eggs, prepared by the stalwart few who had camped out in the fields.  It was delicious, and I ate too much and we sat around the table surrounded by the most incredible garden and laughed and chatted. 

By noon we decided to take on a hike - a six mile journey from Spring Cottage, up to the top of a very steep hill that graces our view - a huge expedition by my account. Our party included Mike, his son William, Finn, Dick and I. The walk took us up a cut in the fields that looked like something out of Tolkien - remarkable old beech trees reaching together from either side of the gully, their roots exposed and no doubt harboring fairies and sprites. I bet many of these trees are older than the US of A. We crossed fields and cows and found ourselves in a deep and narrow valley, surrounded on all sides by steep terrain the likes of which I have never climbed. The grass was like a putting green, dotted with butter cups, forget me nots and thyme. Although Finn did a respectable amount of the climb, I credit Dick with an enormous workout as he carried him at least 4 of the challenging 6 miles. We got to the top of the mountain and took in the breathtaking views - we could see the Solent Sea and Isle of Wight on one side, and our teeny weeny tiny far away home on the other. We circled the peak and began our decent, through fields and woods and grazing pastures. The whole trip took us 3 1/2 hours, and we came back hot and spent, but thrilled to have made the walk. Julia fed us curry with green beans and chocolate something ridiculous and we ate every last bit.

Ancient beech tree.

The cows. The hill.

Rhiannon & Rhys

On the ride home, Mike and I stopped at a 12th century church. Tiny and quiet. We wandered the yard filled with old old graves, and walked inside - the door left unlocked for anyone who might need it. A lovely old space. I don’t know of anything like this in the US, but here, the country is full of them. I felt cradled by the stillness after a pretty high impact night and day.

Finn went to bed without a peep. Dick is sound asleep. The house is quiet. I have made an initial pass at the nearly 600 images I shot today and am wrapping up here in a minute.

The last 24 hours has been rich with struggle and joy. I’ve both wrestled with doubt again about bringing Finn so far for so long, and I’ve reveled in his ability to push his fears aside and live in the moment. We’re taking it as it comes, climbing the hills, and enjoying our spot by the fire. I wouldn’t really have it any other way.

- HPW

Part I - Preparations

I’m actually doing the first part of this blog post before today’s main event, as I anticipate by the time I get back to it, the lovely morning I’ve had will seem like forever ago...Came downstairs this morning to Julia arriving with the buns. Many many lots of buns. Over 100 buns. When you’re preparing to roast a pig, you need a lot of buns.

I eventually turned back and had a peak experience moment when I looked up to see Dick and Finn headed toward me. Finn broke into a run and I thought, my God, look at this. My son is running toward me in what must be, at this moment, the most beautiful spot on Earth. The 3 of us continued on a little ways, enjoying it together.

When we came back to Spring Cottage a short while later, another amazing sight...Julia was IRONING all of our clothes. We had thrown a load of laundry in the wash. She had pulled them out, and with a lovely smile, was standing in the kitchen ironing and folding, with humbling precision, each and every article of clothing: t-shirts, shorts, underwear.

I’ve never worn ironed underwear before.

I must say, it’s a bit of a treat.

Finn was fascinated. We just sat and watched her work in gratitude and disbelief. Finn broke the silence with the announced that his mother NEVER irons anything,which sent us all into a good laugh. 

So now I’m cozy in my ironed underthings, full on lunch of home made lentil soup. This morning’s rain clouds are beginning to burn off, and in what promises to be our brightest, warmest afternoon yet, friends will gather in M&J’s fields, a hole will be dug for the spit, and a celebration will begin. We heard stories about this annual event when Mike & Julia came to visit us three years ago, and we’re so delighted to be able to experience it for ourselves.

More to come!

- HPW

Better. 

Yesterday at the shipyard I saw a sign: England Expects that Every Man will do his Duty. This goes for parents, as well. Dick and I have proven ourselves capable of learning, as parents and as travelers, I think. We had some good talks with Finn last night, snuggles and hugs and outlining of expectations and reasons why. We’ve discussed the benefits of living in another place for a while, and the responsibilities of being a good guest. We stopped to realize that these are things he just doesn’t know about yet - fair enough. In general, simply being more aware of his concerns and taking a moment to stop and reassure him here and there has helped improve both his spirits and ours. And so today we’ve had a lovely day.

We arrived at the Marwell Zoo amid a small fleet of school busses; the students differentiated by yellow or blue school uniforms. I was surprised to hear one little girl exclaim: “Animols ah borving” in perfect Eliza Doolittle (pre Rain in Spain lesson). Fortunately for us, Finn did not feel the same. 

Hard not to love the animals at Marwell - it seems to be baby week. Baby Capybaras, baby Sand Cats, baby Fossas (related to the Meerkat and Mongoose - who knew?), baby Lemurs, baby Coati (another new one for this bio major). Baby week at the zoo. 

The only thing that didn’t seem to have babies was the Somali Wild Ass.

Sorry. It makes me laugh.

I know. I’m a child. 

In the middle of the whole zoo is a magnificent manor house, originally owned by the Seymour family (as in Jane Seymour, Henry VIII’s 3rd wife - I’m all about the Tudors right now so anything related to that is immensely fascinating to me) and was a few times visited by His Royal Highness. So majestic. Sitting right there, in the middle of the zoo.

It was a great day, and a day Finn needed as it was mostly for him. We had fun together and learned a bit about animals we’d never met in the process. And I have to admit it was a nice juxtaposition to what we’ve seen so far. It’s good to know that in addition to staggering, rich history a mile deep, Britain also has a few farting zebras and the occasional Wild Ass. Brilliant.

Stopped at the market on the way home to Stroud and picked up a few essentials, including a bottle of Pimms. Mixed with sparkling lemonade, fresh sliced fruit and cucumber, it has become my new favorite mixed drink (hence the cheeky nature of this blog post). I should add that before a fantastic supper of salmon, wild rice and perfectly cooked fresh green beans (pause to lick beaters from making of incredible merengue - ok, i’m definitely getting up to run in the morning), Finn and I actually enjoyed a few minutes of meditation (his idea) in M&J’s adorable summer house in the garden (do you see? do you see what I mean about this place??).

So we’ve had a great day. Finn is happy, we’re happy, England has expected of us our duty, and, as usual, has exceeded our expectations in return. 

Tomorrow (after the run), we’ll have a lazy day punctuated by a highly anticipated annual Solstice Party we’ve been hearing about for years, complete with pig roast and friends who will camp out in the fields below, Woodstock style, only to rise the next day to a barbecue breakfast. Stop it already. Life here across the pond is good.

Dick is putting Finn to bed, Mike’s mowing the lawn in the rain. Julia and I are drinking something fizzy and dancing to the Moody Blues in the kitchen.

Well done and cheers, England.

Every boy’s dream, or at least our boy’s. Cannons. On old ships. Real cannons, real old ships. 

We come from Bath, Maine - City of Ships - and I have always loved the skyline with its cranes towering above the town. So when we arrived in Portsmouth today, it felt familiar: metal and ships and cranes reaching into the sky. Also reaching into the sky here is Portsmouth’s Spinnaker Tower, an elegant structure featuring a restaurant and amazing observation deck. Its construction was not without hangups - I was reminded a little of Boston’s Big Dig when Julia told us the story.

To the ships - once again, humbled by history. We climbed aboard The Victory, Admiral Nelson’s ship in the Battle of Trafalgar. The ship is 250 year s old for crying out loud. Google it. It’s amazing. Massive. Robust. Majestic. And cannons. Lots and lots of cannons. Finn, running, cannon to cannon. 

From there we took a boat ride around the harbor in the English Channel, touring the modern day battle ships and getting a fabulous view of the skyline. By the time we got to the cafe for a snack, Finn was so wound up I must have told him to settle down 912 times. Dick managed to capture the moment of number 913. Finn looks as tired of hearing it as I am of saying it.

To the kids’ Action Station where he ran and played and jumped around in flight simulators and special ops simulators and simulator simulators. We finished with a tour of The Warrior (see, Cannons) and headed for home. Wiped.

The best thing about staying with friends is that you have a home, a real home, to come back to after a busy day. A home cooked meal, or in our case today, actual tea and crumpets, a cozy couch, a secluded garden. Home. This is one of the great gifts of having friends to visit in another country. 

What I always wanted from my career as a photographer is the opportunity to travel and immerse in the lives of real people in other places. Even more, I wanted to be able to give my husband and son the same experience - what better way to teach a child that we’re all more or less the same than by exposing him to real life in other cultures. Dick and I are thrilled to have Finn here with us for this adventure.

That said...good ideas are rarely that simple. We realized today that we have taken a lot for granted in plunking him down in someone else’s home and in a foreign country (although English culture is not all that different from ours) for two weeks. We understand how to be guests, good guests I hope, and we also are able to comfortably celebrate the break from our old routine at home to experience something new. Finn is enjoying himself, but seems a little at sea about how to be so far away from everything he knows and for what seems to him like a very long time. He’s happy, but a little nervous.

So, while learning about the amazing history of this remarkable nation, we’re also learning more about our kid, about each other, and about ourselves. It’s a walk down a country lane that is sometimes bumpy. Funny how a trip to a foreign land can bring you more in touch with the lives of the ones closest to you. That is the gift of stepping out into the world.

Tonight, an exercise / dance class with Julia and her lovely friends. A great way to cut loose and wrap up a busy day.

Tomorrow? The zoo!

- HPW

Just so noisy. 

Awoke early to the blissful chatter of birds birds birds. Julia said “It’s just sooooo noisy here in the morning, with all the birds”. Delightfully noisy, indeed.

But first, last night. We went to the pool with Mike and had a swim. After that we hit the pub. Not a pub like the fake “pubs” we have in the US, and not the “pubs” that giant tour busses stop for with a load of tourists. A real pub. Tiny, intimate, with a great old dog and a few blokes at the bar. We had a few pints with some friends of Mike’s and called it a night.

L - R: Dick & Mike at the Castle Inn pub in Rowland’s Castle; Spring Cottage - Mike & Julia’s castle; the view from their patio.

Today we set out for Winchester and its famous Cathedral. The rain dampened us here and there, just enough to feel like England, but held off the deluge till we were safely in the car headed back home. Steeped in history, built by Alfred the Great, the cathedral was initially a castle and marked the capital of England from somewhere around the 9th century. It’s hysterical (hystorical?) to realize that “updates” and “modernizations” have been made to this place over the last 1000 years. I mean really. The age of the greatness in this country is humbling. This is a place where even the graffiti is hundreds of years old. 

While built by Alfred the Great, I’d like to point out that Winchester Cathedral wassaved by William the Diver. Yes, Diver. By the first years of the 20th century, the enormous structure was actually sinking, and a waterman by the name of William Walker donned his dive helmet and single handedly reinforced the foundations underwater over a period of 6 years. Thanks, Bill.

Highlights for me in our Cathedral visit: 

• The crypt tour featuring a simple yet stunning piece of modern art called Sound II.

• Morley Library, where the sign says “Please don’t touch the books” but all you want to do is touch the books.

• The stunning West Window, destroyed during the English Civil war, rebuilt in the 17th century using the shattered stained glass - I found this inexplicably moving.

• The scads of school children bubbling around this place in their heritage, so neat in their uniforms.

I so enjoyed taking pictures today. I feel like I could post several dozen here. I’ll spare you that and just put up a handful below.

The Old Chesil Rectory, built in 1450. Now a pub.

Winchester Cathedral, outside & in.

The crypt, featuring Sound II and the Lady Chapel.

Morley Library (Please don’t touch the books) and school children exploring the Cathedral.

West Window rebuilt with stained glass shards in 1660.

Our perfect hosts, Mike & Julia, & Finn’s fabulous cupcake for the road.

Finn’s now had a bath and is headed for bed soon. We’ll have a late supper with Julia’s son and his wife and spend a cozy evening in the cottage. Tomorrow we’ll head to Portsmouth’s famous shipyard. Mom - fear not - I will be putting up many photos of M & J’s phenomenal garden. Although I’m quite afraid my camera and I will never be able to do it justice.

- HPW